Prints not sticking to build plate

Tips & Tutorials for da Vinci series printer.

Prints not sticking to build plate

Postby David » Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:51 pm

I've printed about 100 pieces or so on my Nobel 1.0 (and now the Nobel 1.0A), and I have had just about every failure at least 10 times so I thought I'd share my experiences to help anyone having problems have a better rate of success.

By far, the most common problem that I have had is having a print not stick to the build plate. I come back to the printer, and there is a solid lump of resin in the bottom of the tank, or half of the print is hanging from the build plate and the print is garbage.

Here are the tips and tricks that I have to try to avoid the problem and save yourself aggravation and $$$$.

I have tried really pushing what is possible with the machine, so some of my advice is probably not XYZ approved.

In general, the bigger the print, the greater the likelihood of it falling or not sticking. I have tried printing a part whose surface covers about 80% of the build plate multiple times and have never had any success... it's simply beyond the capabilities of this machine. So try to keep your prints as small as possible. If you have a really big part, break it into pieces and then reassemble them once printed. I've had success with parts that take up about 50% of the build plate surface, but I've had them fail as well. Know the ins and outs of the printer and you'll know how to increase your chances for success.

If you do have big parts, move them as close as possible to the edge of the build plate where the resin tank does it's tilting. On this side of the printer you'll have better success getting prints to stick. The downside to this technique is that that side of your resin tank will get cloudy faster than if you rotate your prints around, but with big prints I find that it's worth the extra cost of having to buy more resin tanks and guarantee success than to gamble and waste the resin on failed prints.

It's very important that your .stl files be watertight before importing them into XYZware, so be sure to correct your files using some of the file prep softwares out there (meshmaker, netfabb, etc...) Hollowed out files eat up a lot more memory than solid files, but when dealing with large pieces you NEED to hollow them out... otherwise they are prone not to stick to build plate. (Maybe not in zero gravity, but then drifting resin becomes an issue!)


If you have access to a sandblasting machine, take the build plate and scour the surface. This greatly promotes adhesion for your parts. Before you do this, I recommend using painter's tape to thoroughly cover up the handle and locking device so that no sand gets into the moving parts. Before printing, clean the entire build plate with alcohol to remove any particulate matter or dirt from the sandblasting process.

I don't know if doing this voids your warranty with XYZ, so do so at your own peril, but trust me... it works.

It works so well in fact, that often times the brim and support material won't come off from the plate and need to be scraped off. It can be very labor intensive, but to me the extra labor is worth it if the prints come out better.


When I had parts falling off or not sticking, the service techs and engineers constantly had me do the calibration. I thought it was a waste of time. IT'S NOT. In order to do this properly, you really need to have the resin tank EMPTY. Having resin in the tank full defeats the purpose, so first drain the tank into a resin container... ( I find that the easiest way to do this is by tilting the tank to the rear right corner... opposite from the resin sensor. It is the only side that allows the resin to drain without an obstruction in it's path.)

I took a 2" x 4" and cut it to the perfect height, making a stand so that the resin tank can be propped against it with a bottle of resin underneath it, allowing the resin to completely drain into the bottle without me having to hold it.

Once the tank is empty I would do the horizontal calibration, following the instructions that XYZ gives you.


There is a definite difference when printing on a fresh tank and printing on a cloudy tank. Cloudy tank means parts fall off or the detail is soft. The tank may look good in place in the printer, but take the tank out and place it on top of the printer case... you will quickly see your cloudy sections. In my opinion, this is the single most important factor for prints falling off. It can be very frustrating at how quickly you can cloud your tank, especially if you print parts that have a lot of support. The spots where supports are very tall will cloud the tank VERY QUICKLY. Printing on an SLA printer, the cost of more resin tanks is just something you need to contend with.

One trick I have done... (I'm 100% sure XYZ will not sanction this)... is that one side of my tank got cloudy, I drained the resin out, cleaned the tank with alcohol, then peeled the silicone up from the plastic tank and rotated it 180 degrees, then dropped it back down in place. This moved the cloudy part of the silicone to the other side of the tank , and allowed me to get more prints out of that tank before buying a new one.

This will only work once, as the dimensions of the resin tank are rectangular and not square, so you can't rotate the silicone pad 4 times, just twice.

That's about it.

Beyond these bits of advice, XYZ's customer support will ask to see the files that you are attempting to print to see if there is an issue with the files, as that was often the case with me. Really large files can be problematic... as the machine only has so much memory to work with.

Good luck!
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Re: Prints not sticking to build plate

Postby smccully » Sat Feb 17, 2018 1:19 pm

My issue is not that parts are not sticking to build plates, the support structures are sticking to the build plate fine. But the parts are not sticking to the support structures. I was not having this problem the first few prints, but the last 12 dozens prints keep failing because the parts are getting stuck to the bottom of the resin tank and not attaching to the support structure.

Any advice would be appreciated, I've only had my machine a week so far and dealing with a lot of failures is getting very frustrating.
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Re: Prints not sticking to build plate

Postby higginsdj » Sun Apr 08, 2018 8:29 pm

What level of contact and how dense? Support structures for makes is a science in its own right and you cannot rely on the software to always get it right. Increase contact and density (even if you have to add extras manually) for the start of the print and gradually reduce as you go up. If your print is 'top heavy' (the heaviest part prints last) then consider inverting the print (ie for a figurine so the head prints first) and even rotate the model to increase the amount of support contact.
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Re: Prints not sticking to build plate

Postby Thicalin » Wed Oct 14, 2020 7:44 am

Hi, I am also looking for a house to buy but I did not get any good place in New York.
But for now, first I have to complete my work of research writing project with papers owl reviews and after that, I will try to take help from your service3. I hope I will find help with this.
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Re: Prints not sticking to build plate

Postby Lelia Runolfsson » Sat Aug 06, 2022 12:44 am

I have a problem with prints not sticking to the build plate. I am using an Ultimaker 2 and PLA filament. The prints are going well, but they don't stick to the build plate. I tried printing with a heated bed and cooling fans turned off, but still no luck. I also tried turning on the heated bed heater and turning off the cooling fan, but still no luck. You can try sweet tea dip as it tastes good.If this happens often, then try adjusting how far apart those pins are from each other. You may also want to try using a different material for your build plate (like cardboard) so that it doesn't stick as much in general.
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